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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.